Surf's Up

Since the starting edges are about ten feet off the ground, most people have to stick clip the first piton, and then hoist up to the establishing holds to begin this route. Once on the wall, you immediately encounter a series of small crimps that lead you into the corner (V5/6). From here, clip another piton (use a runner), and traverse left along an obvious flake to a bolt. Gather your strength and then commit to the very shouldery repoint crux (V6/7). From here, work your way up the parallel, vertical, offset features (11-) placing safe, small gear (TCUs and nuts) about every 10 feet.

Although this climb looks intimidating, it is not a headpoint route. In terms of permanent protection, safety, and movement, it is nearer to sport climbing than trad climbing. With that said, this route still requires solid gear placement skills and deserves a lot of respect.

This route starts in a large corner about 15 feet left of the

Center Route

. A 60 meter rope will easily get you down.

Quickdraws, a stick clip, some small cams, and nuts.

Two bolt anchor that can be easily reached by climbing the

Center Route

and then traversing left.