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Peak Mountain 3

The East Face Mosey

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Description

Approaching from Aguirre Springs to the Spire / Low Horn 6 gully, go right on a ledge system just before the saddle proper.

P1 - Towards the end of the ledge, wherever it looks easiest, head up onto the rock and start traversing right towards a big 4th-class looking gash/chimney/crack system. There are some loose blocks around your feet here, but the handholds are plentiful and the climbing easy. Go up the gash for a few moves, then work up and right on a beautiful face towards the arete, or maybe head straight up the face. Continue up to wherever you can find to build an anchor. If rope drag isn't too bad, you could probably link with P2.

P2 - Continue up to a little roof system with a slab on the left. Do the crux moves (5.7) up the slab, praying the lichen isn't greasy and wet, to easier ground, then wander up to the summit picking the easiest line, with maybe another move of 5.7.

To descend, rap the S. Face with a single 60m rope, or downclimb NW to Low Horn #5.

Location

This is on the East Face of the southernmost Low Horn, #6. Best approach is from pine tree trail to the drainage that goes up between the Spire/Spike and Low Horn #6. Allow 1.5 hours to approach.

Protection

Maybe a couple cams (up to hand-sized) and a few medium nuts.

As always in the Organs, bring new slings and quicklinks or leaver-biners to replace whatever aging, sun-beat tat you find for anchors and raps.


Routes in Low Horn 6


  1. 1
    The East Face Mosey
    5.7
    Trad