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Peak Mountain 3

Youngerberry

FA Jeremy Freeman, Greg Smith & Tai Devore, May 2011
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A logical way to approach the upper tier of the Elderberry Buttress. This is a fun romp up well protected face and cracks.

P1, 5.9- Head up the left hand side of the low angle slab at the top of the approach. The route on the right hand side in the corner is Smoothberry. Three bolts on this pitch supplement adequate smaller gear placements. Two bolt anchor, or link into P2.

P2, 4th class- Move leftwards. Really more of an anchor move over dirty terrain towards the opposing left and right facing corners capped by a big roof. Gear anchor.

P3, 5.8- Climb between the two opposing corners, aiming for the left hand side of the roof. A weird series of large blocks and a "chimney" gets you through the overhang. Continue up the undercut face following a crack to the right. Belay on a big ledge. Gear anchor.

P4, 5.8- Follow good cracks up and right on from the anchor onto the arete feature. Pass a few bushes, and belay at a good stance at a horizontal 2" crack. Notice the bolt above you on the next pitch. There is no decent way to incorporate that into an anchor. Gear belay takes 1.75-2.5" cams.

P5, 5.10a- The crux pitch, but really a one move wonder. Head up towards the lone bolt. Clip it, then make a tenuous slab move on exfoliating potato chips. Carry on easier terrain following the natural ridge feature to a two bolt anchor and good stance at the terrace below the upper Elderberry Buttress. This pitch can probably be linked with P4 with a 70m rope.

Descend from the P5 anchor, moving right from the route, and ultimately heading into the gully. A series of bolted anchors allow rappels with a 70m rope. With two 70's, you can easily link rappels, though it would still be best to do the first rap with a single rope.

Location

Head right from the trail as you near the base of the PSOM slab, there is a secondary gully that takes you towards Scheelite/Elderberry/Dingleberry. Follow the trail up to the top. This is Dingleberry Buttress. There are several sport climbs on a clean buttress. Youngerberry starts on the left hand side of the corner on the slab.

Protection

Single rack to 3". Doubles in the 1-2" sizes (C4 # 0.5-2). Most of the anchors are gear anchors.