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Peak Mountain 3

When Free Climbers Wore Hammers

FA Dan McNamara & Rob Javier 1998
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

I felt like I was back in the Wasatch while on this route! For the Interior this route deserves 4 stars for these reasons: committing moves over runout terrain and excellent exposure; great length of pitch and aesthetically pleasing, quality rock; and the approach allows you to be on a great route within an hour while feeling very alpine and out of the way. The cruxes hit you at the beginning as you access a great hand crack, and up above where you meet a funky dihedral and squeeze section that leads to easier terrain to the top of the formation. Gear heads need to make this a yearly must do!

Location

Route on the North aspect of the formation. Locate a magical grassy ledge and a Birch tree and scramble up to this terrace. Hand crack is located 20-25 feet off the deck lookers left. The Rappel Route is your ticket down.

Protection

Cams and nuts on this route. There are some pins that the FA's encountered and I also encountered one of those pins moving out of the dihedral and transitioning into the squeeze section. Utilize the anchors (slings with rap rings) of the Rappel Route for anchor or set up your own gear at the top.