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Peak Mountain 3

Refractions

FA Nic Sabo and Evan Wisheropp 8/16
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This incredible climb was envisioned by Nic Sabo, who stared at the seemingly blank start and was confident-ish that it would go. The line starts right at the water's edge, and in fact you belay on a small rock out in the water. The plan was that if Nic didn't find any gear and got stuck up there, he could traverse right and jump into the water. Luckily, he found incredible holds and solid (yet somewhat spaced) gear.

P1. (5.10- R) Incredible scoops and ripples make this first pitch look like the refractions from the lake. Bring small gear and belay below a few roof sections.

P2. (5.11+ or 5.10 C1) Head straight up through an overhanging V-Slot. I cleaned about 5 gallons of dirt out of this section on lead to make it through, I got it pretty clean, and I'd bet it's really cleaned up nicely with four years of winters now. Belay up on the ledge.

P2.5 (3rd class) Move the belay left 30'

P3. (5.10) Head up a vertical wall with several left-leaning cracks and a few steep sections. It should be obvious where to bounce over to the crack to the right. Belay on ledge.

P4. (5.10) Finish up with a real good crack up to the summit

Decent: Walk off right and around the lake.

Location

Directly above the waterline of the incredible cliff of Upper Canyon Creek Lake.

Protection

Standard rack, extra small cams.


Routes in Canyon Creek


  1. 1
    Refractions
    5.11+
    Alpine · Trad