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Peak Mountain 3

The Wolfgang Marten

FA Sykes, Keiler, '95
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A fun and direct line up the left side of the Snakeskins Wall, taking you to a proud perch at the top of the cliff where only the Peregrines dare to dwell. From the shady base camp area where the trail comes up, look for a ledge/alcove about 80 feet up beneath the steep headwall that guards the clifftop.  The alcove has vegetation (and a tree stump) and is noteworthy also because there is a broken blocky roof feature you'll be climbing, followed by crack system up to a two-bolt anchor.  The Wolfgang Marten ascends the lower faces of the cliff on slopey horizontals and a few deep definite incuts, passing a couple of bolts and a few gear placements.  The route passes through said tree-stump alcove and up through the notch where there is this neat triangular wedged chockstone and a finger crack.  You'll love the position hanging from that anchor, looking left and right across the wide expanse of spectacular Kinsman Notch!   A single 70 gets you down, pretty close, with stretch and a small down climb, or take your 60m rap to a midway belay station a little to climber's left.

Location

Straight up the wall from where the trail hits the cliff line, which is left side of Snakeskins area. 

Protection

Regular trad rack.


Routes in 6. Snakeskins and Finlandia


  1. 1
    The Wolfgang Marten
    5.9
    Trad