- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route is essentially a significant variation to the Arsenault-Bouchard route, "Hole in the Wall". It shares the same start (a weakness in the lower slabs), but traverses a long 3rd class ledge system around to the right onto the north face. From there, it climbs 4 pitches of quality right-facing dihedrals to the base of a splitter crack. Our intention was to link this crack into another right-facing corner above, but when the crack turned into a slab, we cut back left on a ledge to climb the final pitch of the Arsenault-Bouchard to the summit.
We spotted this corner system from Gash Peak, after climbing Golden Dihedrals. We could not believe that it climbed as good as it did. Also, there is a ton of potential for new variations on the North Face of Ambush off of this large grassy ledge system. If you don't mind some grassy scrambling halfway through your day, then this climb is totally worth checking out. Each pitch has the potential to be classic and its slightly more sustained than the pitches it skips on the Arsenault-Bouchard. Go do it!
Location
This route starts on the NE toe of Ambush. Scramble up to a grassy alcove below a R-facing corner and tie in there.
Protection
Standard alpine rack from C3's to a #3 Camalot. Extra finger size pieces are nice to have.
Routes in Ambush Peak
- 8North Face of Ambush Peak5.10+Alpine · Trad