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Peak Mountain 3

Oh Maggie!

FA S & J Jones 2003
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

One of the big ones on this wall. First pitch is the crux and can be done alone.

P1 - 90 feet, 10 bolts. Easy scrambling leads to the first of 3 roofs. You can clip bolts 1 and 2 above the roof before leaving the stance. The technical crux comes quick and is a funky slabby problem that leads into the pumpy 2nd roof. A great rest after this allows complete recovery and steep jugs lead over the 3rd roof to the anchor.

Very featured face leads up and left and then to the top in 3 pitches. All bolts with anchors. 10a, 11d, 10b. Continuing straight up from the top of P1 is Trail of Tears (13c)

Easiest to rap Taipan to the right at first, then use anchors on Tears/Maggie. 1 rope. Or walk off

Location

This and a collection of other routes are towards the left side of the wall. Maggie is the first route to the left of the bolted roof crack, a very obvious feature.

Protection

10 draws