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Peak Mountain 3

Hyperion

FA D. O'Kelley & D. Davis ,1970: FFA - J. Long, K. Worrall, T. Sorenson, & R. Accomazzo, 1974
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Description

Begin at the left end of the south face and climb a low angle crack (some loose rock) that eventually becomes steeper and arches right underneath a large roof. The crux (11d), protected by a #00 TCU, black alien, or small stopper, entails committing moves to the portion of the crack where the roof begins. From here, underclings and hand / fist jams for 80 ft. lead to the anchors (sustained 5.10).

A two bolt direct start is possible about 20' right of the normal start and joins the route after the crux making this an easier option (5.11a).

Pitch #2 (5.10) is a short traverse and consists of climbing that is comparable to the latter part of the first pitch.

Pitch #3 (11d) is initially very bouldery and deceptively difficult from the onset. Very small cams / stoppers and two fixed copperheads (solid) protect the hardest moves.

Classic route in a secluded setting.

Protection

Very small cams to 3.5", doubles for 1/4" to 2", small to medium stoppers. Two bolt (1/4") anchor at top of pitch #1. Small to medium cams for anchor at end of pitch #2. Two bolt (1/4" buttonheads) anchor at end of pitch #3. Two rappels to the ground.