Access Gully

This is a four pitch climb/scramble, primarily to access top of Muddy Creek Canyon's south wall in order to do top down bolting for future routes.  Nevertheless, it's a fun adventure with very cool arch near the top.

1st pitch is 5.6 for 120 feet. Use single trad rack up to BD #3 and a 70 meter rope. Lots of loose rock, so be careful and check hand and foot holds as you climb. Good pro placement not apparent until third of way up. Top of this pitch has bolted anchor on climber's right to belay second up and for rappelling off.

2nd pitch is a class 3 talus ramp that ends with 20 foot 5.3 chimney.  Chimney free soloed.

3rd pitch is steep class 3 scree for 150 feet or so ending with walk through cool arch.

4th pitch is 5.6 climb on good rock for 70 feet that begins after walking through arch.  There are no cracks for placing pro and no bolts at this time. Must be comfortable soloing 5.6.

While walking along the creek, the gully is obvious on south wall near where the canyon becomes a narrow slot canyon. Scramble up loose rock for 70 or so feet to start of first pitch.

Use single trad rack up to BD #3 and a 70 meter rope.