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Peak Mountain 3

The Whiskey Bottle

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Description

Reach the notch between the Whiskey Bottle and the Indian via 1. a hand to ow crack (looks 5.10-ish) on the south side; 2. a scramble from the north side; or 3. rap from the top of the Indian. The south side crack looks best, and will be the only quality climbing you'll do (see below).

Creatively build an anchor on the notch, step out on the south face, and climb a mostly thin crack to a ledge below the summit block. The rock in this whole section is BAD, and there are 5.10 moves with pro in sandy cracks. Might be partly aidable. From the ledge, clip a bolt, then do a couple 5.11 moves to better holds and the top - OR, stick clip the anchor first for a TR (which we did).

Location

Westernmost of the three towers

Protection

2 ea. cams 0.3 - #1 Camalot, plus a few tiny cams. One #6 would help with the belay at the notch, but who wants to carry THAT up?


Routes in Three Tower Buttress