- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a great face climb if you can overlook the slightly dirty middle section.
Look for a line of bolts that leads up and right through the crux headwall. The second bolt has a quick link attached to it. Make some fun technical moves on the face passing two bolts. Continue up and right. Some gear can be had out left in between bolt 2 and 3. There is some marginal gear more inline with bolt 3, but the rock was suspect and the placement shallow. Below bolt 3 is a hollow block. It looks mostly attached when you get a better view, but avoid it if you can. Use caution clipping bolt 3 as it is steep and a ledge fall is possible. Continue above bolt 3 using the seam for jams, laybacks, and slopers (FUN!). Get a few more pieces before you reach the last two bolts. There is an easy way to clip the last bolt, I will let you discover it. Pull up onto the steep bulge and fight your way out. This section is not truly over until you are standing on the slab higher up. Clean falls if you blow it, good luck!
Location
This climb starts on the Red Dog buttress, which is the last buttress before multipitch SE face. Look for the long flat rock on the trail and the quick link on the second bolt.
Protection
Mostly bolts, single rack from fingers to #2. A few longer slings. Two bolt anchor at the top with quick links. All bolts are in great shape. A 70m is nice, but a 60m with stretch should work.
Routes in Left of main southeast face
- 10Unknown 25.11+Trad