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Peak Mountain 3

Original Route

FA BK June 2, 2018
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is best climbed after Cream Dream Tower.  From the Chimney Route's 2nd pitch, rappel down the slab to the notch between Wet Dream and Cream Dream.

Alternatively, climb up chossy rock from the P1 anchor on the Chimney Route.  I didn't climb this but it looked very loose for the first 15-20' then you enter a chimney and it looks easy. Maybe 5.8R?

From the notch between Cream Dream and Wet Dream stem up to a thin crack. Aid up the crack passing a bolt on the way. At the top of the crack climb 5 bolts and a few holes to a 2 bolt anchor on the summit.  Use dowels, hooks or a stick clip to pass the holes. 25-30m 5.7 C2

Location

Start on the north side of the wide crack that splits Wet Dream Tower and Dream Catcher Tower.

Protection

Camalots-

Doubles 000-3

Single 4,5,6

Extra .2-.4

1 set of stoppers

Offset aliens

Stick clip or bat hook

Single 70m rope


Routes in Wet Dream Tower


  1. 1
    Original Route
    5.9
    Trad · Aid