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MapDescription
This is another great route on The Bookend. Right of
Orange Julius
and left of
Climb of the Ancient Mariner
, it starts on a ledge in a left-facing, wide crack.
P1 climbs the wide crack to a stance at 70 feet.
P2 climbs the somewhat flared crack (nothing new for Lumpy, eh?) through left-leaning moves. I employed various body scums in addition to jams. 120 feet.
P3. Merge right with the arete and face of
Climb of the Ancient Mariner
(somewhat runout 5.6 face climbing) and the
Sorcerer
line to the summit.
Descend to the NE.
Protection
Standard rack with an emphasis on the bigger cams, including a #4 Camalot.
Routes in The Bookend
- 17Handbook5.9Trad