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Peak Mountain 3

Handbook

FA Woodruff, Hare and Gilbert, 1974
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is another great route on The Bookend. Right of

Orange Julius

and left of

Climb of the Ancient Mariner

, it starts on a ledge in a left-facing, wide crack.

P1 climbs the wide crack to a stance at 70 feet.

P2 climbs the somewhat flared crack (nothing new for Lumpy, eh?) through left-leaning moves. I employed various body scums in addition to jams. 120 feet.

P3. Merge right with the arete and face of

Climb of the Ancient Mariner

(somewhat runout 5.6 face climbing) and the

Sorcerer

line to the summit.

Descend to the NE.

Protection

Standard rack with an emphasis on the bigger cams, including a #4 Camalot.