Espresso

iThis is the obvious crack system just left of

Coffee Achievers

(which, by the way, is a great route that rarely gets done). Espresso merges with

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at the top of the 4th pitch.

Rappel down the Black Wall via the standard rappel route, and scramble north (right) along the base of the wall, past the

Rusty Dagger

and

Parallel Universe

aid routes. The route begins on a large ledge about 50 feet above the base of the wall, which is just north and a bit down (via a 4th class chimney) from the larger, grassy ledge from which

Parallel Universe

is accessed. Note that, although this climb is adjacent to

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, you access

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from the valley floor rather than by traversing the base of the Black Wall.

P1). Climb up the finger and hand crack on the far, right side of the ledge (5.10) to a stance.

P2). Continue up the crack using stem, layback, and crack techniques (5.11a) to easier climbing, and then continue up the crack to the same ledge system that forms the 3rd belay of

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. Note that the Espresso belay is well left of the

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belay on this ledge system.

P3). Traverse left about 40 feet to an obvious boulder, then climb a shallow, left-facing dihedral with a bush or two (5.10) to a stance on top of a pillar-like feature.

P4). Continue up and right about 60 feet to the base of the chimney slot which is also the belay for

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.

P5). Climb through the often wet chimney, through an overhanging (but easy) hand crack. Above this, stem up a pegmatitic section until you can gain access to the left wall, and two, horizontal cracks. A tough move, 5.10, to actually gain the wall gets you to the cracks. Follow the cracks out straight left (5.9) until you get to easier ground. Another 40 feet of easy climbing puts you on top.

Standard rack up to a #4 Camalot (2).