We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Diffraction

FA [Kyle Copeland and Charlie Fowler]
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is the best approach route to

Metamorphosis

, as it is pretty direct and at a similar grade. The climbing is varied and reasonably well protected. The guidebook rates this pitch 10a, but I think the crux move is a bit difficult to onsight, and it took me two tries to redpoint this route, and I normally don't fall on 10a. I've climbed this route five times now. I like it.

It starts near the top of the ramp on the south face, but below the

Yellow Traverse

. It heads out a small, left-leaning, left-facing dihedral with a small roof at the top (crux). The beta on this roof is to get the left foot as high as possible before trying to step over the roof with the right foot. The holds are not as good as you'd expect.

Protection

This route protects with single units from stoppers to #2 Camalot. There is a variety of ancient fixed gear on this route (copperhead, RURP, pin, fixed nut, bolt) which can and should be backed up.

Addendum:

The bolt has been updated. Thanks, Steve & Greg!