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Peak Mountain 3

Cacophony Corners

FA Skyeler Congdon & Fritz Nuffer, 3/27/21
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is an alternate 4th pitch variation to

Harmony Dihedrals

and an attempt to find a cleaner line to the rim. I am not sure it worked....

From the bolted anchor atop pitch 3, follow the weakness to the right until you are below a shallow, right-facing corner with a nice finger crack and bright orange lichen (see the photo). Boulder up 15' to a ledge.

Now aim for another shallow, tight corner - this one is reddish. You can fish a medium stopper into the top of this short corner, and follow finger cracks trending left to the next big ledge.

Finally, head straight up into a deep corner/chimney with a nice, hand crack roof on the left side. Pull the roof, and stem past a bush guarding the rim.

All in all, this is a decent way to top out if you finish the third pitch and have summit fever ;) There's much less wandering 4th Class than on the Harmony Finish, more sustained 9+ climbing, and more straightforward route finding... but it still climbs very much like an exit pitch in the Black. Expect lots of lichen and a little choss, and bring a brush/pruner if you're feeling charitable.

Walk left (west) for 15', and downclimb to the rap anchors of

Harmony Dihedrals

.

Location

Climb straight up about 15' right of 3rd pitch anchor of

Harmony Dihedrals

.

Protection

Bring the same rack as for

Harmony Dihedrals

. Sling a big boulder for the belay.


Routes in Sunday Wall


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    Cacophony Corners
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