Celestial Gate

Celestial Gate - what a phenomenal route! May even rival

Days of Heaven

.

P1: Do the dodgy original start or, better yet, do P1 of

Days of Heaven

, but walk the belay to the far left end of the foot ledge to the base of a nice finger crack.

P2: The crux pitch, but probably only 5.11. Climb up the steep finger crack with some creativity until you pull into a welcome fist-jam size constriction. This is where

Days of Heaven

P2 joins with the crack - follow it up to the super cool belay ledge below the hand crack.

P3: Follow the hand crack up for a few moves then reach left and clip a bolt. Follow the tremendously exposed bolted arete past a total of five bolts up to a nice belay ledge near the top of the wall. This pitch offers some fantastic, exposed face climbing, but if you're not in the mood you can do an 11b finger crack variation by following

Days of Heaven

for a bit before cutting out left on a thin crack, then up. Soft for 11c?

I loved this climb!

SR + TCUs or RPs.