Lilliburlero

This is a short climb with a short crux and is most often top-roped when anyone pays it any attention at all. Start climbing just left of the rising brown band of the 5.9 start of P1 of

March Of Dimes

and continue up into a thin (tips) crack and a hard crux, joining

M.O.D.

at the easy right-facing crack 1/2 way up.

This variation of the first pitch of

March Of Dimes

starts just down-canyon (left) of the traditional set of starts.

It's not a total lack of gear that makes this route so hard to protect as it is the lack of stances from which to fuss anything in with confidence. A few small nuts are possible.