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Peak Mountain 3

Hangman

FA Alan Nelson and Ken Trout, 1991
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Hangman is the furthest route to the right (East) on Primo Wall and starts after the slabs - just off the trail. Hangman and

Suspended Sentence

share the first four clips up a near vertical face with an adjacent right-facing corner. Stem the corner, move out right onto the face, and solve the first fingery 5.12 crux. This will deposit you into a horrizontal slot that defines the beginning of the roof system. Cop a rest here. The roof can be had on its left for SS or on the right for Hangman. Either way, the roof gets surprisingly steep immediately with 5.12 cruxes to the left or the right. I found the Hangman finish to be a lot less rough on the hands, perhaps a little more obvious. Hangman finishes through the roof on an open seam/flake system of lay-aways that are surprisingly powerful. These holds look huge, but in a couple of places you are working some pretty thin crimps on a steep wall. Two stars for sure for the complex moves at the start, powerful climbing, and excellent stone. Toss in another beer for Alan Nelson and his route finding skills. By the way, did I mention that the roof was steep???

Protection

QD only. This 40 ft route needs about 7 draws and you won't wish for fewer.