The Old Tradevious Route

P1: Ascend a broken corner system past bolts (including a two-bolt rappel station) and gear to a comfortable belay ledge below the... well, below the... you know... the Pope's... how do I put it? Well, you get the idea. 5.10+.  45m? 2 starsP2: Clamber up a short but quality corner along the edge of the Pope's... thing... until you are able to step right, surmounting it, and arriving at a two bolt belay on top of... it. 5.10. 15m? 3 starsP3: Cast off up the headwall past an early crux, into a sea of sustained and steep hueco climbing, past another crux or two, to an exposed belay ledge and a two bolt anchor. 5.12-. 35m. 4 starsP4: Finish off the route with the obligatory Sedona summit experience: garbage choss pulling that feels harder than it should be to a pokey summit tower. 5.11+. 15m. 2.68 stars

Hike the Hangover Trail to the climber's trail in the gully which leads up towards Queen Victoria spire. Head right (east) across slabs below the Pope's Dick formation, continuing well right of the formation until you can make a short 4th class scramble up a few meters of cliff band. Traverse back left to the formation (passing the start of the Shipley route in the corner) until you reach the base. Look for cleani-ish climbing with a few bolts here and there.

You can probably get by with doubles to #2, and a single #3, but we used triples of #1 and blue metolius/redC3 sizes on P1. Maybe 16 quickdraws/slings for the crux pitch?You can leave a lot of the rack at the top of the first pitch. P2 is mostly fingers. P3 is all quickdraws. P4 is a few quickdraws and a few cams between .4-#2.