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Peak Mountain 3

Old Folks Boogie

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Description

"You know that you're over the hill. When your mind makes a promise that your body can't fill". - Paul Barrere (performed by Little Feat)

Climb the knobby face a few feet to the right of the rightward arching flake or, alternatively, quasi-lieback up the flake itself on low-angle friction for approximately 30’ - 40'. At the top of the flake traverse, on easy friction, diagonally leftward for about 40'or so, passing below a series of small, downward-facing ledges to access a second robust, rightward-facing flake. Climb the face to the right of the flake to its terminus for about 50'. From here there is an obvious line of knobs and plates surrounding a prominent groove, leading upward past a series of small, leftward-facing flakes for about 75' to a smallish, round boulder with a half-dead shrub and into a boulder filled gully. 3rd-class the gully until it exits a short distance below the summit. Either continue to the top (it's a stroll) or scramble around to the left and then down the brushy, boulder-strewn flank to descend.

Location

From the main trail going up to Dome Park, at the base of Waterfall Dome, where you can see "The Stain", 4th class (?) up to a decent-sized, very flat, sandy ledge where “The Stain” proper begins to steepen. From there traverse left, and angling slightly upward to a very robust, rightward arching flake with a chickenhead studded face a few feet to its right. Begin here.

Protection

Fat cams, slung heads. get creative...