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Peak Mountain 3

Catlong

FA Mark Anderson, 2017
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Catlong is another newish, 13-, roof climb jug bash on the Cat Wall roof. Climb

Grizabella

using all the tricks to keep rope drag to a minimum (slings, back clean, skip bolts). At the anchor, continue straight on easy but slowly steepening ground to the first bolt on the extension. A sling is nice on this first bolt. From here, it is 10+ / 11- climbing on slightly terrifying choss up to the roof. At the roof, begin with a tricky sequence off a bad fingerlock to reach a good jug. Clip and enter the crux with another fingerlock and some powerful moves up to a good jug. From here, powerful moves on good crimps lead to the anchors.

Grade: it is probably hard 13a or low 13b, probably like a V5 to V6 to 12- outro.

Rope: I was able to get down from the top anchors with an 80m rope with about 15' of easy downclimbing. Use caution, and TIE A KNOT.

Beta from Mark:

rockclimberstrainingmanual.…

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Location

Climb

Grizabella

, and continue straight up.

Protection

18 bolts, 7 on extension, lots of slings (at least 10), and an 80m rope (with downclimbing, or lower twice).