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Peak Mountain 3

Chesire Cat

FA Ryan Barber, Bradley White 2011
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

I led 'Beat the Heat' to the large pine higher up and left of the route, entered Wedell's Dike, continued up the dike until able to traverse left up between wall and Pine tree because of fractured blocks in the area to belay at large Oak tree below small headwall (130ft). From this belay spot Ryan led up Quartz ridge left of this Oak tree (Crux) is at the start of this lead. After getting on the ridge follow it up and traverse right to enter the same face as 'White Rabbit'. Finish up 'White Rabbit' and belay right at Oak tree. Exit up dirt gully. To add one more bolt to would make the climb (PG). The climbing is (5.4) after the first bolt but after the second bolt the bolts are to far apart and a fall here will have the leader deck at the Oak tree. The climb is a bit lichen covered at the beginning and higher up the climb is clean. Nice view and exposure. Tropical storm 'Irene' has dislodged three stacked 10lb plus rocks left of this dike 100ft up from Hinderland's trail. Unable to set them back to stability and there perched precariously! These blocks are left and not on the route.

Location

Starts at the large Oak tree midway up and left of 'Wendell's Dike'. Walk off after exiting the dirt gully and go right and up to join up with the Crow's Nest trail.

Protection

5 bolts and then 4 bolts on 'White Rabbit'.