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Peak Mountain 3

East Rib - North

FA Vitaliy Musiyenko freesolo (maybe)
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Description

Start the route as you would start Mendenhall couloir. Climb up the 4th class steps including the crux chimney before you get to a fork about 2/5ths up. At the large red rock bend continue going straight and right towards a prominent rib. Mendenhall Couloir will be to your left. On your right will be a steep vertical drop off to another gully. As you start up the rib at some point the climbing will get steeper. And you will reach a few headwalls. There will be one easier one, and one a bit harder. Exposure at the headwalls is great. One involves stepping on a fairly unstable flake to climb that headwall. I broke the top half of it in order to create a semi stable foot hold. Continue up the rib. Keep on the crest at all times when possible. Climbing is really fun, scenic, and exposed. Most of the rock is actually solid, but use your best judgement. This is a great alternative to the regular route. Great for some cardio. Whole thing took me 4 hours car to car without being in any hurry.

Location

It is a prominent rib right of Mendenhall Couloir

Protection

I soloed this route and did not bring any protection. If you are thinking of protecting it bring a few small to medium cams and a 30M rope for a few cruxy steps


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