- Edit (TBD)
Description
How this obvious line sat for 25 years is beyond me. I figured Mike or Tony or EFR or SOMEBODY must have looked and decided it was too hard or too chossy or something.
I was also surprised how much loose sh*t I was able to pry off. At elevation just under 8000 feet i expect better rock quality.
Climb easy but fun 20 foot dihedral to a ledge. The scary-looking blocks above the ledge seem solid and have been reinforced. You don't really use them anyway.
Above the ledge, launch into a 35 foot, skin-tearing, faintly overhanging crux with a ton of cool sequences. After that you will hit a pod/bucket, and do a celebration cruise up the last 10 feet of beautiful holds.
There is a keeper bolt for the belayer just left of dihedral. Could be used for CJunkie also.
Location
Obvious dihedral just right of Cowboy Junkie.
Protection
Stainless steel bolts. Some are 3/8 by 3.75. Some are half inch. Climbtech hooks at anchor.