- Edit (TBD)
Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf]
Description
Begin as for
V3
, up the left side of the large block between Fin Three and Fin Four. Climb up the crack and follow the crack out left to reach the first bolt. Crux is above the second bolt. Belay from a single bolt anchor at the top and walk off to the north.
The climbing is classic thin Eldo face climbing. Good moves. The crux is pretty short. The climbing could be made more difficult by staying to the right of the bolts (and the obvious holds to the left) but the line is quite fun.
Per
Tony B
: ...after about 40', the dihedral gets larger on your left side. At that point if you look to the left you will see a line of bolts. Move up and left to these bolts to a 5.11 crux (can be made easier by excessive wandering about on the face) and then though a more sparsely protected 5.9- section to another group of bolts (5.10). Rossiter's old book claims that the route has become more difficult as a few holds "have broken off in the vicinity of the third and fourth bolts" but the route still seems reasonable at its grade, and the clips are not difficult if done from the best stances.
Eds.
This is a combination of submissions posted in 2001.
Protection
7 QDs and a few pieces up to 1/2" to protect the lower part of
V3
.
Routes in Cadillac Crag
- 7Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf]5.11-Sport · Trad