Testosterone Monkey

P1 - a bolt protects the first move into the crack. Climb crack placing 1-4 inch gear to a bolted belay near the top of the crack out on the slab to the right (~150 ft, 5.8, no chains at belays). P2 - Climb left following bolt line up the short headwall to the left of the large roof (5.10a crux first 20 feet, ~150 ft). Headwall can be a little mossy at times. P3 - follow bolt line up a wide water-crack, topping out into a small saddle (classic 5.9 water-crack, ~150 ft). Top 30 feet will be a little sandy but rock is very coarse texture with great footing. Once on summit ridge scramble to highest point on the summit where you will find the register and rappel chains (four 90 ft rappels).

Easily located, Testosterone Monkey begins in a large right facing inside crack under a large roof in the center of McKinley Rock.

crack takes 1-4 inch gear, bolted slab and water crack