- Edit (TBD)
Description
A unique climb for sure. A "girdle Traverse" according to DK. Start on the far right side of the roof, scurry up the easy slab, then start the long trip out left, following the obvious crack weakness, often making more sidewards progress than vertical. The crux is a fairly bouldery long reach straight left to a good pocket off a vertical shallow sidepull pocket. Once you get past this its more or less pretty great holds the rest of the way, though the feet suck so you have to decided whether to campus it or heel hook. Once you pull the final roof an easy slab leads to the anchors.
I found it tough to rest anywhere as its pretty sustained. A little dirty but hopefully it will clean up with more traffic. Don't fall anywhere between bolts or you'll be "boinging" the juice out of your arms.
I personally found it quite stiff for the grade.
Location
Start on the far right side of the roof at same first bolt as "cobble reality" and then start climbing straight left.
Protection
All bolts. Well bolted. Currently equipped with steel permas on all bolts. Mandatory following on TR to clean if the permas aren't there.