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Peak Mountain 3

Desperately Seeking Susan

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Description

This is one of the best of S.Nut's "moderates" and has a bolted anchor, making it a great warmup for the harder lines here.  The only caveat is about 15-18 feet of unprotected squeeze chimney right off the ground, which is definitely the crux!  You might be able to protect this opening with a big bro, but otherwise you'll have to just squeeze your way up to the first horizontal and some "thank god" gear.  After emerging from the squeeze, enjoy amazing 5.9 face, crack, and layback moves up to one of the best views in the NRG.

Location

On the right end of the buttress that separates White Wall upstream from the New Traditionalist area downstream.

Protection

Big bros would work, but even a 6 camalot won't fit the squeeze. Most folks just take gear up to a 3 camalot, with a healthy selection of TCUs for horizontals.