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Peak Mountain 3

Route Less Traveled

FA Jesse Amundsen and Quincy Stang 2013
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Do not climb this route...

The guidebook description says "climb the start of Vector Trouble... to a short blocky section to a perfect hand crack... and lower from fixed gear."

First off, the "fixed gear" doesn't exist or has been booty-ed. Secondly, the "perfect hand crack" is a fine hand crack, but found on about 5.2 terrain which is guarded by a 5.7 fist crack to a nearly unprotectable blocky section that felt much harder than 5.7.

We trundled two large (toaster oven or so) blocks that were just sitting in the blocky section that pulled right out and could have seriously injured a newer leader. Protection above the ledge is sparse and a fall in the blocky section would cause someone to hit the ledge.

It's just not worth it. Climb something else.

Location

Shares it start with Vector Trouble. Look for a large, orange block with two cracks and a ledge about 25 feet up.

Protection

no anchor at present. be prepared to leave something under the roof at the top to lower from. gear up to 3"