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Peak Mountain 3

Mito

FA Herbst/Kaufman
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Classic Herbst climbing on nice rock. P1. 35 meters.  Scramble and jam up cracks and ledges, then across a slab to a 4" crack.   Real crack moves (arm bar, fists, stacks, dealer's choice) lead up to easier face and crack, and a small ledge.  Belay off gear (several mediocre small pieces or use a #3 or #4 if you saved one). P2. 35 meters.  Straight up the crack, many sizes from #1-#4 camalot.  At the top of the crack there is a bail anchor around a block.  We elected to skip this, not believing a single 70m rope would reach the slabby ledge.  Instead we clipped the anchor and traversed left and up across the face (nuts) to the base of a chimney.  Belay off any sized cams.  Easier than the previous pitch, but maybe more thoughtful.

P3. 15 meters. (To reach the end of the Last Hurrah) Climb the chimney, which is fun and easy.  At the top move left and belay on the ledge.  2 bolts at your feet or build your own.

Rap straight down The Last Hurrah with a single rope.

We climbed this route as a warmup to the sport routes on the ledge.  I would recommend the 2nd pitch of Last Hurrah as well, for some stellar 5.8 hand crack.

Location

Right of the big roof of The Last Hurrah and just left (shared start?) of the 5th class scramble up to Man of the People.

Protection

Single to 1, doubles to 4. Nuts for anchors and the traverse into the Last Hurrah.