The Doggfather

This route is a true classic and is a must-do for any visiting climber capable of the grade. Begin with a long, pumpy, sequential 5.11+ face climbing section to a sloping rail where there is an awkward no-hands rest using your shoulder blade and smeared feet, use it well. Once you get uncomfortable in the no-hands "rest", best to move on to the crux which is a V5 boulder problem through a bulge that can be done by moving left or right from the rest. Both are about the same grade. The final move is a deadpoint from crimps to a big rail that has spoiled many a redpoint attempt.

Follow the trail map for the Bolton area to the 82 crag and use the rope to climb up the chossy 5.5 intro crag to get to the base of the hard routes. The Doggfather is the 4th route from the left or two routes right of the spray-painted "82" sign.

bolts