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Description
Follow the clearest crack up the south face of the Shire Spire, working from thin hands to fingers. The climb is slabby, and face holds provide good feet for much of the route. After about 35 ft the crack peters out, and you can move up and left onto juggier terrain, protected by two bolts. The climb has a great alpine feeling, with interesting rock and fun moves.
Location
Follow the thin crack up the south face of the Shire Spire, at the north end of the Luther Spires area.
This striking monolithic tower will catch your attention from Mixed Emotion and is the next formation north from the Just Do It tower.
The anchors are not readily visible from the ground, but are just across the crest of the tower from the anchor for Back Crack, and can be readily set up to toprope.
Protection
2 new bolts protect the climb after the crack peters out and the climbing gets easier. New 2-bolt anchor with chains. Toprope by climbing Back Crack and leaning over the tower to set up a top rope on the Virginia anchors.