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Photo
MapClark Kent
Description
One of the best at Dexter. Rope drag precludes doing it in one long pitch.
P1: Start with the crux off the ground in twin thin cracks. Follow easier crack climbing and belay under a large roof about 100 feet up.
P2: Hand traverse to the right edge of the roof, then jam and stem up a very cool overhanging corner.
Location
Routes at Dexter are hard to describe since they often look alike. A good landmark is a shallow cave close to the ground about 40-50 feet right of this route. Look for double thin cracks; the left is straight in and the right is in a shallow left-facing dihedral that arches in from the right (see photo). A large roof is easily visible above--this is the best landmark of the route.
Protection
Thin to 3.5 inch