- Edit (TBD)
Description
The description of this route in the Adirondack Rock guidebook may scare folks off it, but I was surprised to find a number of nice new bolts protecting the start. The 10c R section is no longer a concern: hopefully this encourages more folks to go climb it.
This awesome, varied, and sustained pitch is in an amazing position and offers off-vertical 5.11 climbing that protects well and will keep you thinking. Begin at the bolts to the right of the Partition corner, off the slanted ledge, and climb through clean solid edges to interspersed rests between technical, engaging cruxes. At the last bolt, prepare for uninterrupted difficulties until the end, as well as some Adirondack dirt and lichen to keep things interesting.
Location
Begins 20 feet right of the Partition corner, on the slanting ledge
Protection
Bring a standard rack. Bolts and a few pitons and an old can-opener looking riveted hangar protect the meat of the bottom half, but the crux(es) and most of the route are protected with good gear.