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Peak Mountain 3

Carving Pumpkins

FA Chris Baumann and Bob Gaines, December 2014
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is the longest route on the cliff, second from the right.

Start with an undercling, then power through (10b/c; somewhat height dependent) a slightly overhanging bulge to a ledge (3 bolts). Continue up an easier corner on orange varnish past a 4th and 5th bolt, then, at the 6th bolt, move left at a tricky undercling (5.10-), then back right past a 7th bolt up to the top and a chain anchor.

The 7th bolt was not used on the first ascent and was added later to protect the follower (or for toproping) from a bad swing and potential injurious fall.

A harder (10+) direct finish has been toproped: move right at the 6th bolt and power over an overhang. No need to clip the 7th bolt for a directional if toproping the direct finish.

Beware of crumbly rock at the ledge half way up and at the very top.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2-bolt chain lower-off/rappel anchor.