- Edit (TBD)
Description
You can't miss this one. 4th class scrambling leads to the base of a massive flaring chimney in the middle of the wall. Climb the dingy, crumbly beginning to the base of the chimney. Clip the rouge bolt, then squeeze and squirm your way up the amazing black chimney protecting any chance you get. Gear placements are sparse and creative. Build a gear anchor once you reach the alcove with the short overhanging roof crack just above your head. Plug as much gear in the crack as you can from your tippy toes, raise your psych level, and fire the strenuous roof crack. *(Attentive belay is key here, especially for the second.) Pull around the corner at the lip of the roof and soak up the wild exposure as you head for the slab. Climbed from the ground up. Very Yosemite-esque.
Location
the massive chimney in the middle of the wall.
Protection
Gear to 3", 1 bolt, nuts and small cams useful, extra long slings for chock stones.
Gear anchor (2x3",1x2"). Second pitch has bolted anchor.
One 70m rope. Rap to 'Levee' anchors then rap again.
Bring a crashpad for the second pitch.