In the Shadow of the Summer

This route has fond memories for me, not only because I remember enjoying it as many of the other Red River Classics that I got on that year, but due to the FA party where NO ONE sent. There was a three fall limit imposed, and it thwarted many a, new and old, strong local. When the heat and mank are no more it may feel low in the grade, but I remember it being rather tough.

Sustained from bottom to top, this worthy addition to Miller will find you alone and wondering where the jugs went. When at last you find them in giant iron-oxide bands clipping the anchors (tread careful here). Otherwise, you may want to scrub some lichen off, the rock is rather bomber, and cleaned rather well.

There is a low bolt in the cave to protect a low class move up to a small ledge, once on the ledge go indirect to the bolt above you and clip up above the roof, lower back to the ledge and shoe up. Not easy to clip the bolt above the roof and would not be fun to blow. If you feel a pause in ethics about this, smile and remember you are sport climbing :)

Quotes from the FA party (more to come):

'All plans are canceled' -Xach

'Fuck dough' -Red Matt

(more photos to come as well, right now i only have the ones of me)

Walk to the Monastery and head left. Once you hit the Nomad wall (dark and manky left facing wall), continue left and down hill (steep and dirty), and walk a little further till you come upon two routes, the one on the left going up through the chossy cave is the route (the diehedral on the right is 11+?).

BRING DRAWS. Perma's where you want them, but bring a handful of draws