Toad Crack

Traverse in from the right on the diagonal crack (tough balance of protecting yourself, your follower, and reducing rope drag) to gain the base of the inside of the large flake. Squirm, chimney, lieback, and curse your way up the crack until you can decide to go left or right toward the top of the climb. Natural anchors and a scramble down the backside.

• The traverse in may not be a part of the original 5.9 rating. To me it climbed more like a 5.10

It's the prominent gently left-arching crack that invites you to "come and climb me!"

Singles 0.75-6 (BD)