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MapDescription
Think you can climb any 5.9 out there? Give this one a try (but it would probably be better to let your partner have it).
Look for a relatively short, right-facing corner uphill from
The Slot
a ways (not the black corner which is
Sugar Mama
but just uphill from there). Climb face up and past a piton to gain the corner. Gather your strength and courage, and try to pretend you are Royal Robbins. Continue up the corner using thin holds and smears with very little gear. If done today, I doubt people would have a problem with calling it 5.10b R, but in 1978 with not very good footwear, this was apparently 5.9.
Protection
A single set of small cams and stoppers, one quickdraw for piton.
Routes in East Buttress
- 1Chestnut5.9Trad