Harris-Emery Aid Route

This is the route of first ascent of the Needle's Eye and must have been an arduous undertaking, drilling 14 (*) 1/2 inch bolt holes by hand. Today the route goes free at about 5.11 (5.11- according to Paul Piana's guidebook "Touch the Sky"), but, as he points out, you pretty much have to climb the route on aid to do it free, since none of the bolt casings have a bolt in it.

The year was 1974 when I was there with two friends and aid climbing was just starting to become "passe' ".  Certainly, "in those days"  it was much more acceptable to aid climb, especially repeat an establish climb.  The only other route up the formation was known to be "seriously run out 5.8 - 5.9" ( modern translation "X", and a bit above our "Pay grade") but it just seemed such a neat summit to reach.

After finding the route (no easy feat), a couple of moves up to the first bolt casing provided the info needed for bolts.  Then off to Custer and the local hardware store, then back with a dozen+ bolts of, I think, 2 sizes. (...The nice man at the store said: "Sure you can return them if they don't fit.")

Then, up we went.  As Paul Piana describes: "...the climb is actually quite enjoyable; some of the clip-ins are as exciting as the moves themselves." I am taller than my partners that day, and recollection is that they had quite the reach at times. I do remember a "good time was had by all" and much beer flowed that evening. I'm almost sure that the storekeeper at the hardware store even let us return the bolts, at least the ones we didn't use. (We bought 2 "sets", each a slightly different size.)

"D" walked around taking pictures while Steve belayed (or were those rolls reversed?) who knows!?  Steve lugged his camera up to the top for the summit photo with the s--t-eating grin and "Aussy" hat.

The route photos (including the close up of a bolt) were taken in 2018 on a return trip (my first return since 1974 to the Black Hills )

From the parking lot (e.g. in from of Thimble) follow the formation around to the right and scramble up a gully for 50 +/- feet to a level landing.  The route climbs the north face.

   *  Piana's book says 14 bolt casings; so you'll want at least that many bolts to fit in them. I don't know if the book we were using gave the number, but that's a good start. Maybe take a couple of extras in case you drop one. You'll want a wrench too, and probably 14 "hero loops". (Remember, all you're going to have is the head of the bolt and a bit of the shaft; although I suppose you could bring along 14 1/2 inch hangers, but Hero Loops are all you need and they cut the leverage on those 65+ year old casings!

Be sure to remove the bolts and take them with you. (Maybe the hardware person will even give you your money back if they don't look too used ! )