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Peak Mountain 3

SSE Ridge

FA Snively? Kimball? Gillett? Sievers? Cordes? Dumais? Fricke?
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route most certainly must have been done previously. It may be the same as that mentioned on p. 274 of Gillett's fine

RMNP, Estes Park Valley

guidebook. From below, it is the line that calls out to be climbed. Unfortunately, the climbing is not as steep as you would like, the rock is a bit scruffy, and it is shorter than you would like. Still, for an easy romp in the sun, it could fit the bill.

P1. Start on the obvious, broad ridge and find easy terrain with big holds. There are plenty of options. There is a good belay ledge, 5.2, 220'.

P2. You can stay left to keep the exposure up (easier) or head right for some slightly more challenging terrain. The difficulty drops to 4th Class after probably a half pitch, and then it is 3rd Class near the top, 5.1, 200'.

You can unrope and continue on 3rd Class terrain with big exposure. You will find a 3rd Class ramp down and left (west). Hike around the highest point of the rock, and go right and down a gully between this rock and the rock to the east.

Location

This is the very obvious ridge climb on the second from the right crag. It looks steeper than it is from certain angles.

Protection

A rack with wires, cams to a #2 Camalot, and long slings would be adequate.


Routes in Deer Mountain South Side