- Edit (TBD)
Description
P1: Climb a 5.9 hand crack for 15 until it turns into a water groove at a horizontal (the original route traverses in from the White Eye chimney via this horizontal). Layback the water groove (crux, 5.11) past two bolts to a second, more prominent horizontal. Traverse left across this horizontal to a hand crack. Climb the crack (5.6) until it ends. Build a gear anchor at a good stance. (5.11) 120
P2: Traverse up and right to a large ledge and two bolt anchor, passing bolts on Crabnebula for protection (5.9). 30. Or, instead of traversing finish up the second pitch of Crabnebula (5.10b) 100
P3: The original route followed a dirty, loose corner on the left (5.5). Or, finish up the second pitch of Triplet (5.10b) 80
Location
This is a free variation of the last to pitches of Forest of Fanghorn. Begin at a small stance 200 below the access ledge.
Protection
Standard rack, doubles of #.75 and #1. 2 bolts.