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MapDescription
Despite what Bloom says in every edition of his guide books this route is not 5.11 and until recently did not have anchors. However, it's a super varied climb with everything, face holds, tips locks, chicken wings and all those in between sizes. Still a few crumbly edges that will clean up with time but on nice varnished rock!
Location
Just to the left of Hole in the Wall, start carefully up a crumbly pillar (A .4, #4 and #3 protect this fairly well)
Protection
There is a bolt protecting the crux. Recommended gear is something along the lines of: 1 blue alien, 1 green alien, 2x .3, 3x .4, 3x orange metolius (.5's are super tight), 1x .75, 2-3x #1, 2x #2, 3x #3, 3x #4, 2x #5, 1x #6 (all in camalots unless otherwise specified)
Routes in Battle of the Bulge Buttress
- 14Bloombagged Again5.12Trad