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Peak Mountain 3

Lucid Dream

FA Rick Smith 1997
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Voyage up the first two bolts shared with New Mexican Graffiti- don't worry if you didn't bring your stick clip, it won't help you anyway. Don't fall on the cool 5.10ish balancy climbing that gets you to the second bolt. Style points for doing the slug mantle at the third bolt but the higher hand traverse also works. The first cruxy section deposits you at a cool stance below the spectacular overhanging-compression-slab crux. The hero finish is shared with New Mexican Graffiti.

This climb is a rarity at the grade in White Rock- it's long, clean of sand and lichen, and on bulletproof rock from start to finish. Highly recommended and well worth the trip.

Only two things detract from this fantastic climb- first, it's fairly height dependent (I thought it was reachy at a 6'3" wingspan). Second, the bolting is sometimes curious. I recommend warming up on New Mexican Graffiti and hanging draws as you lower. You might want some longer draws.

Location

Lefthand bolted line at Fun City.  Routes share the first two bolts.

Protection

9 bolts, chains on the anchor.


Routes in Fun City


  1. 1
    Lucid Dream
    5.12b/c
    Sport