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Peak Mountain 3

Last of the Famous International Playboys

FA V. Stiefel & H. Harris, 5/18/03
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The climb ascends two very thin and discontinuous cracks that don't reach the ground on the east face. The rock is slightly overhanging for the first half of the climb (40').

Begin left of the cracks in a dihedral and climb 10' to a ledge. Traverse right to the base of one of the cracks. A #2 TCU (awkward placement) protects difficult moves over a bulging section. One more bulge higher up leads to the top. Protection is intermittent and challenging to place but solid. This climb has the potential to be 3 stars out of 5 but more ascents are needed to clean up the rock.

Protection

Very thin to 0.75" including brass and very small TCU's (#00 - #4). Double Ropes are helpful to minimize drag. Bring medium to large cams for the anchor. Down climb off the south end of the crag.


Routes in The Morrissey Crag


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    Last of the Famous International Playboys
    5.11c
    Trad