We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Eagle's Dare

FA g orton & harold hall, Nov. 2005
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

You will find a description on pages 60 and 61 in vol. 2 of the Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Umpqua, 2007, Mtn. 'N Air Books. Crux is on pitch 2(5.9+). Once you've made the "Terrible Traverse" (~30 ft 5.8) you are committed to finishing the final 2 pitches to the pinnacle's summit (5.6 - 5.8). 90% of the climb has fantastic airy exposure making this an Acker classic.

Descent: Rappel off summit chains down backside about 35 to the saddle ridge and belay anchors. From belay anchors scramble/climb to the tree to your right where you will find a crack (Class IV). Follow the crack out onto the upper face to your right to the first set of rappel chains you used to rappel into Eagle's Dare. Exit through the gap to your right.

Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007, topo G page 61.

Location

from Lookout follow the ridge left (south) to first large gap in the ridge. Cross through the gap contouring approx. 30 ft where you will find rap rings. Make 8 100-ft raps to the base of the pinnacle on your right (looking out) where you will find bolts on the first pitch of Eagle's Dare. The is a 5.6- bolt line leading back up the ridge from the end of the 2nd rap. After this you are committed to finishing the rappels.

Protection

3/8" SS Fixe Double Expansion. Rappel Chains for rappel into back saddle with a short scramble or easy climb back to the original rap anchors on main ridge (can sling tree if needed). PG = exposure and leads generally may be unsuited to someone transitioning from gym to outdoor climbing at the same rating.