Surfing with the Alien

Climb the face just left of the chimney, stemming back onto the block behind you and eventually mounting them at the 2nd bolt. Climb the arete and crack and fiddle in gear where you can before bashing through the large sloping edges of the middle face. Cut left along a sweet diagonal that eventually widens to hands. A couple of easy moves place you at a rail, a bolt out right, and Cornick's Corner easily reachable on your left. Most people will probably bail left here and romp up the last few moves of the crack. If you do go for the final crux, know that the difficulty is out-of-character with the rest of the route. Described as 10d in the PRC guidebook, it is certainly WAY harder. It's a brief, bolt-protected, and exciting series of moves though if you're capable.Historical Note: Originally the route started up the face instead of the chimney. The rebolters (not me) moved the bolts far to the right, which takes away this good bit of climbing, but kept the same bolt count and made for a less spicy start.

Far right side of Orange Wall, just right of obvious Cornick's Corner dihedral, and left of chimney

Gear to 1.5", 2 bolts (third bolt optional for upper crux) Medium nuts and tiny cams especially useful