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Peak Mountain 3

Make Arete's Great Again aka (MAGA)

FA Ryan Kempf and Will Flottman
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P0. Locate a large flake at the base of the wall, and shoot for that. Climb slabs left of said flake to access a grassy ramp. Follow the ramp up and left until it is possible to step right on a sloping ledge. Here you will find a 2 stopper anchor. You will not be able to see the fixed gear until it's right in front of your face, the crack is slightly offset. Follow the topo. The climbing to here is solo-able if you choose (5.don't fall).

P1. From this point, you have 2 options to the next major ledge system. The line (climbers left) indicates a path that I would call 5.7. The line that heads climbers right through an arching crack that is ~5.10 to the ledge. Once on the ledge, locate a small alcove/right-facing corner. There are 2 stoppers to belay from in that corner (5.7 or 5.10 70m).

P2. Walk climber's left on the ledge until at the end of the system. Climb a left-facing corner and flakes. Stay climber's left when possible aiming for a broken crack system and more left-facing corners. There is no fixed gear on top of this pitch. Build a gear anchor or sling large blocks (5.9 70m).

P3. The final headwall pitch. This starts on the arete. There are 2 bolts before the 1st overlap. You get a few cam placements while climbing through the overlaps/small roofs. Pull out of the roofs on crimps, and make your way back to the arete gaining a  bolt. From here, angle up and right clipping the last bolt and entering a thin crack. This crack protects with 0.1 & 0.2 cams in the beginning then opens up to 0.3/yellow Mastercam size. The final crack starts off in 0.5s and opens up to #3s at the top. There are 2 bolts with rap rings on the top (5.11+, 30m).

Protection

A single rack from 0.1 to #3.